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Wonderful to hear! It is a really fun and unusual kit. Have fun with it! Thanks for watching and commenting!

I'm glad you liked it! I think you'll enjoy it. Happy modeling!

Thank you so much! 😀 I am grateful!

When it comes to compound curves, I would often cut the decal apart, taking into account the shape of the curve, so that each section of the decal would have less of a curve to deal with. Usually I could then line up the next piece, and the next, and so on. It did require that each decal section be fully dry before placing the next. Getting over the molded in detail is another issue. For that, I normally would get the decal in place, focusing on the edges and alignment, but ignored the giant bubble over the detail. Once the rest of the decal dried, I could then make tiny slices around the raised detail, and hit it with setting solution. In both cases, I had to be prepared to do paint touch ups to cover the gaps. There have been more than a few schemes I avoided over the years knowing that the decals were simply not up to the task. In fact, I would often find that spending the time (when possible) to mask things off and then airbrush them worked better. (Like invasion stripes on an aircraft.) And finally, sometimes I just slapped it on, hosed it down with setting solution, and then just fixed all the warts. HTH! Thanks for watching and commenting!

@@JonBius the last sentence is EXACTLY what I done. 🤣 Worked out fine too. It wasn't easy. Thanks for the quick reply. Subbed

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching and commenting!

I've not worked with guitar headstocks before, so I can't speak from experience directly. But here are some things that might be of help- First, if the clear finish is not harsh (lacquers, etc.) you might try putting a dot of it underneath where the decal will be placed. This "pre-wets" the surface, much like decal prep for the models. If the clear finish you use is harsh, then perhaps a dot of clear gloss acrylic might work. That will make sure that there is liquid beneath the decal to help the adhesion. You may need to lightly brush this on to get enough coverage if the decal is larger. Second, when you place the decal on, try to go from one end to the other. Don't just slide it onto the surface, but rather lay it down from left to right, or top to bottom - whatever fits the decals dimensions. Third, when you get it in place, use a cotton bud to lightly work out any of the air bubbles that may appear. Work from the center out, carefully pushing them out, almost like a squeegee on a windshield. Do this slowly, carefully, and thoroughly. Finally, if you do see any bubbles, use a sharp needle to make a small hole in the bubble, and try to flow in some of the gloss finish from step one. Of course, I'd highly recommend trying this on a non-production piece first. While I know this method works for models, I have no idea how well it translates into wood and high gloss finishes. You may need to adjust for the realities of that. I hope some of this information is helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting. :D

@@JonBius Thanks for your reply. I have to try to find something to apply on the surface before sliding the decal on. This is tricky though because if I don't get that right the decal will be damaged. Guitar decals are expensive, especially if you are using logos for big manufacturers because they don't like people selling those in case they are faking guitars rather than repairing. I'm going to try vinegar because apparently these decal setting liquids are mostly vinegar based. The surface I am going onto is Rustins Plasticoat. I'm not sure if you can get that in America. It's British but an absolutely fantastic wood finish better than anything else I ever used. The downside is that it melts decals unless they are fixed with something first. Plasticoat is twin pack with a hardener so dries rock hard. I seal the decal with Rust-oleum Crystal Clear sealing spray which is the best gloss lacquer I found for this. I think this is acrylic based. It does the same as these decal solutions if you give it another light coat after placing the decal and leaving to dry but you have to be careful to avoid too much softening.

@@ryanstark2350 I figured it was quite complicated. Some testing will help you see what works. I do hope you can find a solution! I am on old ex-player... arthritis took my playing away. But I do love guitars! Happy day to you!

Thanks for your kind words! And start saving now. :)

Thanks for watching and commenting!

It depends on the effect you're going for. For a cleaner look, I'd test out a light gray for a higher contrast appearance, and maybe a medium blue gray for less contrast. That is assuming the base color is a darker blue. In my opinion, the key to it is to get some contrast that helps highlight the details, but doesn't cross into "glow effect". Experiment with a few options and see what you like. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching and commenting. :)

I'm always glad to hear that the videos are useful! Thanks for watching and commenting, and happy day to you!

Thanks for watching and commenting!

I'm so glad you enjoy them, and thanks for the kind words. You can get the cup and other stuff here: jonbius.creator-spring.com/ Thanks for asking about that, and thanks for watching and commenting. Happy day to you friend! :)

I think it is more efficient myself! Thanks for watching and commenting!

That is a test model, so it gets all sorts of paint jobs. Most of it is green, but one wing is painted blue. Thanks for watching!

@@JonBius thank you, I order some based on your recommendation. May your skies be blue and your winds calm for flying.

Thanks so much for watching and commenting - happy day to you friend!

I'm glad you enjoyed it! It's always great to know that the videos help my fellow modelers. Thanks for your kind words, and happy day to you friend!

I think you'll like it! It's very fun, very different, and invites all sorts of "out of the box" thinking for the finish. And I'm so happy to hear the videos are helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting. Happy day to you!

Nor is it a bad candy bar! 🤣 Thanks for watching and commenting - I am grateful Happy day to you!

@@JonBius Darn autocorrect! Ugh! Lol

@@JonBius curse you autocorrect! Lol

Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thanks so much for the sub! I'm glad you're enjoying it. That was in Somalia in '93. It was actually Pakistani M113s we rode in for some operations. It was quite a different thing for an SOF paratrooper to be in! Thanks for watching and commenting!

@@JonBius Yeah definitely, did those T-10’s do a number on your back as well?🤣, it’s snap crackle pop on my end, every morning when it’s cold.

@@JM-83 I feel it the most when I am going up the stairs to my office every morning. :D

If you can get it at a reasonable price, it's definitely a gem of a build! Thanks so much for watching, commenting, and subscribing. And thanks for the kind words - always appreciated! :D

No, I got off of all social media about a year ago - FB, IG, and X. Life is simpler that way. :) Thanks for searching me out on RUclips - I am grateful!

Forgot to mention - I'm still on Patreon, and I have my blog at www.jonbius.com. :)

@@JonBius Hey dude!! You are still rocking out with the models , love your Mig knight

@@robertt4351 Thanks so much!

@@JonBius cool. Thanks.

I just smile and nod. :) Thanks for watching and commenting!

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thanks for your kind words - I am grateful. Happy day to you friend!

Glad you liked it! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!

Thanks so much for your very kind words. I am grateful. 😊 Happy day to you friend. Thanks for watching and commenting!

I'm glad that was helpful! The first time I saw someone do that it was a "mind blown" moment for me. So simple, yet so helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thanks for your kind words. I hope you have fun with your build. It's an outstanding model!

Thanks! 🤣 Happy day to you!

Good tip! I'll have to check that out. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Any color is fine if it goes with your swamp theme. I'd recommend adding some gloss coat over it - maybe not complete coverage, but in various places. Mud has various stages - glossy is wet, matte is dry, lighter color is crumbly dirt and dust. So taking that into account will help sell the notion of fresh mud. I have a playlist of all my weathering videos: ruclips.net/p/PLZt56FNuWOKfHs6gaqKR2V-g2nq1B7DZM Here's some that may be useful: ruclips.net/video/6X4hPD08s-I/видео.html ruclips.net/video/pdIG2cH-ZkA/видео.html HTH! Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thanks for watching and commenting and supporting the channel! :) #allhailthealgorithm

​@@JonBiusWatching while building a flea inspired Fliege MaK kit, thought you might appreciate that

@@erichansen5218 Cool kit! Have fun with it! jonbius.com/2019/12/03/nittos-1-20-ma-k-fliege-recalculating/

Thanks so much!

Thanks for watching and commenting!

You are far too generous. Thank you for such a kind comment. And thanks for watching and commenting. Happy day to you friend!

Glad it was helpful! That is borne of a bad memory. :)

@@JonBius Hmmm, sounds like there might be a teachable lesson there ;-)

You know, I actually started off considering doing this as the A-Team van too! The only reason I did not was I hope to sell it, and it will likely have a better chance if it is closer to canon. But I think your idea of adding in the A-Team would be awesome! Thanks for watching and commenting!

@@JonBius great minds!

Absolutely - layers gives depth of finish, and "sells" it to the brain better. That little pic from my Bob Ross gallery visit! Happy day to you friend!

@@JonBius Yes, that is what I thought it was and where it was from. Must be a real delight to be able to see that each day. I noticed it a while ago.